Yummy Stuffed Tacos
ADVICE FOR THE FOODLORN
by Tom Steele
This time of year—hell, any time of year—I crave Mexican food. I want to make soft corn tortilla tacos at home. Do you have a good recipe?
Bob Anderson, Brooklyn
I came up with this recipe after a great deal of trial and error. Now it works every time. My boyfriend insists that I make this at least twice a month, and I gladly do! It’s also not expensive, especially if you have a fairly well-stocked larder. You can tinker with the spices, and add more cayenne to the marinade, but be careful! You can also tan the tortillas under a hot broiler, turning, until they take on some color. If you need to make them more pliable, stack them and microwave them for a minute or so.
Tacos al Carbón Indoors
Those of us who cannot indulge in outdoor barbecuing certainly needn’t deny ourselves the pleasures that grilling can yield. This is nice, messy, Saturday night fun, though not for company, unless you enjoy seeing your friends with sour cream all over their faces.
3 smooth-skinned limes, heavy for their size
2 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
6-8 drops of “Liquid Smoke”
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground mace
1/2 teaspoon “five-spice” powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried ginger
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
droplets of Tabasco sauce, to taste
1 1/2 lbs. flank steak
(or sirloin, skirt steak, or even top round, sometimes called London Broil,
though with the latter cut, I’d go with 6 hours’ marination)
15-20 scallions, different sizes, slender to thick, trimmed
(leave no more than 4 inches of green top), split lengthwise if large,
and cut into 2-inch pieces
1-2 tablespoons peanut oil (or corn oil)
12 6” corn tortillas
Hot sauce and/or salsa of your choice
Ripe avocado(s)
Chopped fresh jalapeños
Chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives, or your favorite olives, pitted
3/4 lb. Monterey Jack cheese, grated
Plenty of sour cream
Roll the limes on your counter and microwave them for about 1 minute. Halve the limes and squeeze the juices with a juicer into a 1-cup glass measure.
After squeezing the lime juice, run the garlic cloves through a garlic press into a one-quart glass measure. Immediately pour in the lime juice, then the olive oil, soy sauce, Liquid Smoke, cinnamon, mace, cayenne, ginger, oregano, pepper, and hot sauce droplets.
Score the steak lightly in a cross-hatch pattern on both sides, and place it in a large sealable plastic bag, pour the marinade over, and refrigerate, turning it once or twice, for 4 hours. Let the meat spend a half-hour at room temperature before searing. That seems to relax it. Reserve the marinade.
Prep all vegetables and garnishes. Heat a large empty cast-iron skillet for five minutes over high heat. Add a slicking of oil, lower the heat to medium, then carefully lay in the steak. Cover the pan, unless you dearly love smoke. Cook for no more than 2 minutes per side for medium rare. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and keep it warm.
Lay the scallions into the undrained pan, and pour in the reserved marinade. Cook, covered, stirring once, until the scallions are lightly browned and tender, 7-8 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a few teaspoons of peanut oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tortilla and fry until just pliable, 10-20 seconds per side. Be careful not to let them get too stiff. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Repeat with remaining tortillas, adding a little oil as needed.
When the scallions are done, place them in a serving bowl. Carve the meat across the grain and at a slight angle into 1/2” slices. Cut the slices crosswise into 1/3” cubes. Place on a heated serving plate and serve immediately, with the grilled onions, salsa, chopped jalapeños, chopped olives, grated cheese, and sour cream.
Yield 10-12 overstuffed tacos
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