lemonwade

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ADVICE FOR THE FOODLORN
by Tom Steele

Can any non-vegetarian possibly resist fried chicken? I think it’s the ultimate comfort food. As with macaroni and cheese, there must be 10,000 recipes. I’d love to see yours!
–Marcus Corbett, Chicago

Over the years, I think I’ve nearly perfected fried chicken. My boyfriend, who has great tasting capabilities and is fairly fussy about certain factors, loves my fried chicken, and there can practically be no higher praise for me.

To be sure, it’s a special occasion dish. There’s an overnight marination involved, one really shouldn’t eat deep-fried food all the time. That marination in plenty of buttermilk and Dijon mustard will give you the tenderest chicken you’ve ever tasted, especially if you start with really fresh legs. Free-range chicken legs can be tougher, especially if they come from a bird that weighed over 3 ½ pounds. But this marinade tenderizes pretty ruthlessly. Note that if you use kosher chicken legs, which are brined, you should hold back on additional salt.

I usually fry only drumsticks and thighs; tough, dry, fried white meat has never thrilled me, and this way, everything cooks so evenly. But if you use bone-in, skin-on breasts, cut them in half crosswise before you commence.

As you fry chicken over the weeks and months and years, you’ll develop a sixth sense for gauging the appropriate oil heat. Electric frying skillets are especially useful for frying chicken, but you’ll have to do it in several batches. I usually just use my two large cast-iron skillets.

I haven’t indicated how many this recipe serves, because I’ve found that that varies too widely. Four? Five? Whatever–you’ll pray for leftovers.

4 pounds chicken legs and thighs
2 cups buttermilk
3 heaping tablespoons of large grain Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons lightly toasted mustard seeds (optional)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Droplets of jalapeño or regular Tabasco sauce, to taste

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup corn starch
3 tablespoons baking powder
salt (watch it) and pepper
2 tablespoons Bell’s Seasoning for poultry
A teaspoon or so each of dried, rubbed thyme, sage, and rosemary
2 teaspoons ground allspice
cayenne pepper to taste (optional)

About 4 cups peanut oil, depending on the size of your skillet(s)
(or lard, if you want very crunchy, brown crust)
(or olive oil if for some reason you’re trying to be “healthful” about it, though olive oil will probably smoke up and break down a bit)

Wash the chicken legs and thighs and pat them dry with paper towels. Place in a very large plastic bag fitted into a large bowl. Mix the buttermilk, mustard, optional mustard seeds, black pepper, and Tabasco sauce. Pour over the chicken, tie or seal bag securely, and refrigerate about 24 hours, turning the bag when you can, at least three times.

Put flour and remaining dry ingredients into large, doubled paper bags fitted inside a plastic supermarket bag; close the bags, and shake well to combine the ingredients. Drop in half the chicken, close bag, and shake to coat completely. Place coated chicken on a large wire rack. Repeat with the rest of the chicken. Let the chicken rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes after coating with flour. (Refrigerate if you’re letting the chicken rest any longer than 30 minutes.)

Meanwhile, heat about a half-inch of your oil of choice over medium-high heat in two heavy-duty skillets with lids (cast iron preferred). Heat the oil in both pans to 350 degrees, and carefully add the chicken. Cover and cook over medium to medium-high heat. Check after 6 minutes and adjust heat if the chicken is browning too quickly. Take the oil’s temperature; it should be between 250-300 degrees at this point. After about 10 minutes total, carefully turn all the chicken and cook uncovered for 10-12 minutes.

Return chicken to the well-cleaned wire rack and serve “whenever.’’

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